While I was doing some re - reading of Elizabeth Zimmermann's Knitter's Almanac, I am just amazed at how simple it is to follow her designs without a lot of hoo - ha directions. If you haven't read or even thumbed through the pages of any of her books, please take a moment the next time you are at the library.
If you become familiar with EZ's "EPS" system, take a moment or two to think about it, now, apply the formula to a simple knit sweater from any knitting book, magazine, or pattern. It doesn't have to be an adult size, it will work for anyone. Once you have K, or Key Number, the rest of the body is given a percentage of that.
The kicker is, the whole business is based on gauge. Yup, gauge. My students are getting better at this technique, I have only been reminding them to do this for longer than I can remember. I know it is an unwelcome subject for so many knitters, but I like to explain the necessity this way.
Most of us purchase the best quality of yarn that we can afford. Now, combine that with the number of labor hours invested in this garment and give it price as well. Not to do so is short changing yourself. Do you like $5.00, $10.00 or perhaps more an hour for your knitting. It is so important to think of it in those terms. This may be a gift for a loved one, but if it doesn't fit, look at what has been lost. To just give it away to someone else who can wear it is OK, but now you are out your gift, yarn cost and your labor cost.
In these times of budget stretching, where every penny is important, I'm thinking that the lowly gauge swatch makes more sense than not. Thirty to sixty minutes of knitting to get it right is a small price to allow for. Here is what you get for your mini investment of time:
- First and most important, the correct number of stitches per four inches (not one inch) for a fabric you absolutely love. It won't be too loose, like, in seeing through it, or too tight, as in stiff and unwearable. Remember to measure over four inches. It makes a whole lot of difference. Try this, measure the number of stitches over just one inch. and mark it down. Now, measure over four inches, is it the same? Most likely not. For instance, if you measure over the four inches and get 20 stitches over 4 inches, that means per inch, you have 5 stitches. Now, measure over only one inch. It is rare in deed that you will come up with the same number, and remember, fractions of a stitch count as well, don't over look that.
- If you keep a record of your projects, attach it in your book along with a yarn label, needle size and also be specific as to whether you knit a flat gauge or circular gauge. If you are knitting a circular garment, you should always do a circular gauge. If you really love this yarn, and you should, the information you need for future projects is already documented.
From this point it is a matter of casting on your stitches and get on with knitting your pattern or design. Another advantage of EZ's books, you will learn to knit by very vague directions rather than line by line. I'm not saying that she doesn't use line by line directions, but prefers to simplify by guided instructions instead. It truly is amazing how well this method works. For new knitters, the thought of "flying by the seat of your pants" so to speak can be scary, but you also learn the general construction of the sweater, and ultimately cuts you loose from the dependency on every printed line.
I am going to stop here, there is so much more information that I can share with you. If anyone wants to read more, pick one of EZ's books and then let me know if I can be of some help to you. We can do all kinds of things, KAL, a class, or what ever might be helpful to you. Leave a comment or contact me at dee@youandmeknit.com. It is time to look toward the Holidays and the special gifts that you will be able to knit for everyone.
Enjoy the rest of your afternoon, and Happy Knitting!
No comments:
Post a Comment